Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese 2007

The color is dark amber and very deep, which for a nineteen-year-old Trockenbeerenauslese is about right rather than alarming. The nose is fragrant and properly complex, honey first, dried fig sitting behind it. Sweetness and acidity arrive together on the palate and neither one takes over. The finish is long. Chardonnay is an unusual grape for dessert wine but it holds its own. Nineteen years has bought the dried fruit and the honey without costing the freshness that holds them up. At 13 euros the only sensible response is to find out whether anybody still has more.